
Part Six – Frequently Asked Questions
Q. When I tried to test the unit I got a high number on the
digital display, but the alarm didn’t sound immediately.
Why?
A. Please refer to “How the unit determines when to alarm” on
page 5-1 for an explanation of the “time weighted alarm.”
Q. How much electricity does it take to run the CO alarm?
A. The alarm uses less than one watt of electricity.
A typical night light uses approximately four watts.
Q. Will the alarm last longer if I unplug it during the sum-
mer months and only use it during the winter?
A. No. Some components of the alarm can deteriorate over time
if not used regularly. We recommend the alarm be plugged in
continuously for maximum alarm life.
Q. I use the alarm in a vacation home that isn’t always
occupied and can have temperature extremes when no one
is there (no heat or no air conditioning). Will that hurt the
alarm? Should I leave it plugged in all the time?
A. We recommend that your alarm not be installed in areas where
temperatures fall below 40˚F (4.4˚C) or rise above 100˚F (37.8˚C).
Your alarm was designed to be constantly plugged in for maxi-
mum performance.
Q. I plugged in the alarm at my house (my parents’, my
neighbors’, etc.) and it read “0.” Does that mean everything
is OK? (I’m thinking I can return the alarm since every-
thing checks out OK.)
A. This CO alarm is designed to act as a continuous
monitor, it is
not designed for use as a short-term testing device to perform a
quick check for the presence of CO.
Remember, a carbon monoxide problem can occur at any time,
even after a professional inspection has determined that every-
thing is in proper working order. Examples of problems that can
develop are a crack in a furnace heat exchanger, a leak in a water
heater vent, or a bird’s nest blocking a flue.
Other sources are nearly impossible to detect: even a change in
the air pressure outside can turn a normally safe situation dead-
ly. That’s why you need the 24-hour protection provided by a CO
alarm.
6-2
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